Exploring the Isles of Shoals

Exploring the Isles of Shoals

“Of all four parts of the world that I have seen not inhabited, could I have but the means to transport a Colony, I would rather live here than anywhere.” These are the words of Captain John Smith, one of the first European explorers of the island, suggesting the richness and the beauty of the coastal landscape. The first people who inhabited the islands made their living from fishing. Most probably the name of the Isles of Shoals originated from the large “shoals” of fish that the early settlers found in the waters around the islands.

The Isle of Shoals is a group of nine small islands bridging the border of the states of New Hampshire and Maine. The group is formed by Appledore Island – the largest, Star Island, Smuttynose and Malaga Islands and other small islands, including White Island. Smuttynose is not populated today.The main attractions of the islands are the old and historic buildings, lighthouses and nature observations. From resort hotels to fishermen cottages, every place on the Isles of Shoals has a wonderful story to tell.

The Islands host one of the most beautiful grand hotels built throughout the 19^th century and early 20^th century, of which the Oceanic Hotel and the Gosport House on Star Island are the greatest. What is impressive about the Oceanic Hotel is its shape: a series of different buildings arranged in a row. In the past, these hotels allowed tourists to escape the large cities’ noise and heat to have a relaxing time on the sea coast. Nowadays the Oceanic Hotel is still standing and is used as a conference center.  The hotel does accept day visitors and will even rent out a few rooms to those looking for a unique experience.

The most prominent attraction on the Appledore Island is an observation tower built in World War II to hold a radar installation, which is no longer functional. At the base of the tower is a marine laboratory since this island is home of Shoals Marine Laboratory. On Smuttynose Island, the Haley House is believed to be one of the oldest structures in the State on Maine.

On the White Island, about 10 miles from the Portsmouth shoreline there is the Isles of Shoals Lighthouse. Despite the fact that this island is not open to public access, views of the lighthouse can be seen from Appledore Island, where travelers are allowed to explore.

Those who do not own their own boat can get a ride from one of the charter boats that run from either Portsmouth or Rye Harbor out around the islands. It's exciting to hear the amazing history of these  places, especially the famous murder mystery that took place in the 1800s on Smuttynose Island, recalled in the story “A Memorable Murder”, by Celia Thaxter.

Most enjoy the trip out of Portsmouth aboard the M/V Thomas Laighton.  Portsmouth Harbor is a unique working port with tugboats, tankers and the nation’s oldest and active naval yard. The landscape reveals the closed castle “the Alcatraz of the East”, the quaint Olde Port waterfront, a famous grand resort hotel, 5 historic forts and 3 lighthouses proudly guiding mariners safely through the waters.

For those of you who are very active, and need to feel adrenaline pumping, I suggest going kayaking. You can rent kayaks from the local kayaking shops or attend organized trips that will offer you a complete tour of the islands, kayak equipment and all you need to spend a lovely day on the sea.  I would not recommend kayaking from the mainland to the Isles of Shoals, it is best to load the kayaks on a boat and grab a mooring in Gosport Harbor.  This will give you a chance to explore a number of the islands. 

It is nice to take advantage of the whole day and start your trip early in the morning. Gear-up at sunrise to enjoy as much as possible the unique scenery. The highlights of the paddling trip are the bird watching and seal sightings activities. The Isles of Shoals is also an important Bird Area inhabited by threatened and endangered species, which you would definitely enjoy to observe.

Our exploration of the islands stops here for now. I hope that my trip guide was useful for those who plan to spend a day out at the Isles of Shoals or those who look for exciting places to visit this year. 

Freedom Boat Club offers our members a variety of boat styles, including kayaks, allowing you to explore new activities and destinations on the local waters.